Chart a course for Trader Ed's

By JOSEPH DALTON, Special to the Times Union
First published: Thursday, September 11, 2008

At 113th Street and Second Avenue in the Lansingburgh section of Troy, Trader Ed's sits one block away from the Hudson River.

Because there are lots of homes between the place's front door and the water's edge, it's certainly an exaggeration that some of the restaurant's promotions read, "Overlooking the Hudson River."

Principal owner Terrence Frederick says that from certain seats at the bar you can spy Peebles Island and some boats. Reminds me of how some Manhattan apartments are said to have a view — if you hang your head out the window in the right direction.

But who goes to Lansingburgh for a view? We went for food and were blown away.

The seafood appetizers were especially fine and proved that the place fully lives up to its tag line, "Nautical Pub and Restaurant."

With the Manhattan seafood chowder ($2.50 for a crock, $5.95 bowl), I expected the usual equal parts potatoes and clams in a tomato base. Instead, the sauce was brown and rather clear, more of a broth really with a marvelous mix of spices, and half the ocean seemed to be thrown in, including calamari, clams, muscles, crab, white fish and scallops. I also found a few slices of carrots but not a single potato. According to Frederick, the base for the sauce is their homemade marinara, which makes me curious to try some of their pasta dishes.

The Cajun curry shrimp ($9.95) was also astounding. Served on two giant fresh lettuce leaves were six medium-sized cooked shrimp in a brown marinade that had just the right amount of kick. The two pieces of garlic bread it came with were perfect for wiping the plate clean.

Most of the main offerings on the menu are of the luncheon variety — appetizers, hot and cold sandwiches — though there are some fried fish selections and half a dozen pasta dishes.

But we showed up on a Sunday evening and ordered from the specials, which change daily and always include beef, chicken and seafood items. My swordfish steak ($21.99) was about an inch thick, cooked perfectly and served in a light citrus sauce. It came with white rice and a side of fresh string beans lightly sauteed with pearl onions.

My partner Richard became a land lover and ordered the beef bordelaise ($15.99). Cascading over a mountain of mashed potatoes was a generous portion of cubed beef in dark, rich gravy. The meat seemed to be a fine cut, no castaways thrown into this dish. Always concerned to get enough greens with his meals, Richard inquired if the beef also came with the vegetable of the day (the green beans). Our helpful waitress, Regina, made sure that it did, though I suspect that would not have been the case without asking.

While I savored that chowder, Richard had the house salad ($1.99 as an add-on to an entree, or $3.99 on its own), a mix of lettuce, shredded carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers and onions with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.

For dessert, I went with what the menu called "chocolate something" ($5.75), which on this night was chocolate mouse cake. Besides the two layers of cake and the mouse in between, it included icing and chocolate shavings plus whipped cream. Since there was also a strawberry shortcake ($5.75) available that night, we made another special inquiry, asking if just some strawberries would be possible for Richard, who forswears desserts. Sure enough, Regina produced a cup of the fresh fruit in a stemmed glass ($3.99).

We've been talking up Trader Ed's to our friends and will surely be returning. Though I'll wait to see what the specials are when I next arrive, I may go with the well-priced "Key West Fest" ($18.95). It includes a bowl of the seafood chowder, coconut shrimp and jumbo scallops over rice pilaf plus key lime pie.

The entrees, by the way, were served on bright red square plates and the appetizers and desserts on yellow triangular plates. Our sodas ($2.70) came in tall glasses, at least 14 ounces, bearing the Trader Ed's logo.

The only disappointment of the night was the drab decaf ($1.89), but by that point, we were sold. Our meals with tax and a nice tip for Regina came to $88.

Joseph Dalton is a local freelance writer who contributes regularly to the Times Union.